Patrik Ervell S/S 08
The best clothes are the kind that can extend themselves into multiple meanings, the versatile and elastic. A reversible jacket, a skirt than can be worn as a dress, it's the ability to transform into something else. It can be very obvious like a reversible jacket or in fact subtle and far more significant. There was a black anorak in Ervell's collection that shimmered when in motion and cut in a way that's reminiscent of antique men's formal wear. Its succinct tailoring and a gather in the back gave the illusion of a tailcoat. While connoting ideas of formality or luxury it kept its appeal as a simple anorak; easy, practical, and just a hint of the contemporary. Yet, it could be worn over a tuxedo at a smart occasion and its lesser status as sportswear would be unnoticed. The garment operates between two worlds very effectively. This is the kind of sensibility found throughout Ervell's collection. His continued elevation of synthetics and sportswear gave way to refined tailoring and classic menswear icons, a binary with each sides enhancing the qualities of the other.
There are wonderful and powerful details in the clothes. Some of the collars on the shirts have loops for scarves to be pulled through and worn. A nice touch of utility for the sake of luxury. The plackets, pleats, collars, and bands, while being functional and practical were done in proportions and sewing notions that gave an allure not usually granted to mundane construction elements. These were neck bands and shirt plackets that looked marvelous simply doing their jobs. The most douty items, a check blazer full of stiff and boring connotations, remains sensual and desirable. Soft lavender denim heightened a new and bold aesthetic. The clothes move in and out of their conventions and it's up to the ambitions of the wearer to allow them to.
Ervell is keeping clear of the uber slim Slimane silhouette that was at the vanguard of fashion for some time. What he is providing is notably less affected. The outerwear moves around the body rather than intrusively clinging, tailoring that falls softly around the torso, and pants that are slim but not obnoxiously skinny. It's a look that comes off as youthful but flattering as well.
And what is a fashion collection without juicy references to dig out? I'm not sure if Ervell would be too keen on the idea that he had any that could be detected but i've connected some dots on my own.
This is all subjective, it's what I picked up on, his clothes stand their ground with or without intellectualizing. There's definitely an unique appeal to Ervell's clothes, their hip but anti-hipster vibe, the boyish attitude, the freshness of the ideas. He draws on a male archetype not yet appreciated in Paris or Milan but is finding a voice among the new crop of menswear designers in New York. It's in this way that his clothes become so thoughtful. Ervell has something to say and we're all the better for it if we listen.
please view the full collection and read Tim Blank's fantastic review at men.style.com